One Hook, One Fish, One Future: Reviving a Fishing Tradition Through Culinary Excellence
Canadian Diners Have the Power to Preserve Newfoundland’s Handlining Heritage.
Jerry Hussey reeling in wild North Atlantic cod. Photo by Johnny C.Y. Lam
As the September sun rises over Bonavista, a historic fishing town rich in over 500 years of seafaring tradition, ice, bait, and fishing gear are loaded onto a small boat in the harbour. Jerry Hussey, a local fisherman in his late 60s, prepares for another day at sea, the same as he’s done since his teenage years.
But unlike many other fishermen in Newfoundland, who rarely know where their catch will end up, Jerry knows exactly where his fish are going. His day’s work will travel far beyond the rugged coastline, destined for the kitchens of some of Canada’s top restaurants, including one recently awarded a second Michelin star.
“This is the most sustainable, responsible, and traditional way to catch fish. There’s no by-catch when you’re handlining, one hook, one fish,” said Mr. Hussey, pulling a large cod from the water as squawking seagulls circled overhead, their eyes sharp and hungry.
He swiftly cut the gills and placed the fish in a plastic box to bleed out, an essential step for ensuring quality, before gutting it and packing it in slush.
Working in close quarters aboard their 28-foot vessel, Mr. Hussey and his longtime friends Brian Fleming haul in around 900 pounds of cod by hand in a single day. Each fish is carefully bled, gutted, and iced at sea before they return to shore.
The practice of bleeding fish is centuries old, deeply rooted in traditional fishing cultures worldwide. In Japan, techniques like Ike Jime are especially revered, not only for their precision but also for the superior quality they yield. Bleeding a fish immediately after it’s caught improves its flavour, texture, and appearance by removing blood that can cause strong, metallic, or "fishy" odors and accelerate spoilage. The result is a cleaner, whiter fillet with reduced bacterial growth and a longer shelf life, making the fish more suitable for transport and high-end culinary use.
While large-scale operations chase volume, Jerry focuses on quality, from the moment the fish is caught to how it’s handled on board. He has carved out a unique kind of value, becoming part of a carefully managed supply chain that prioritizes traceability, sustainability, and quality, all in keeping with the philosophy of traditional handlining.
Paul Babineau, owner and operator of Foggy Shoals Fish Company in Bonavista, is already at the wharf waiting for Jerry’s boat to dock. The boutique seafood distributor works exclusively with small-scale fishers who use traditional methods.
“It usually takes less than 48 hours for the fish to go from the sea to a restaurant kitchen in Montreal or Toronto,” says Babineau, as he hoists the catch from the boat into a large, polar-insulated box on the dock. “Jerry handles everything, from catching to cleaning the fish right on his boat, so by the time I meet him, they’re ready to be packed and shipped out the same day.”
For the past six years, Babineau has been supplying premium seafood from Newfoundland to some of the top restaurants in Ontario and Quebec. But it didn’t start out that way.
“When I first started working with Jerry, I was only selling locally in Bonavista,” he recalls. “Things changed when I met Chef Jeremy Charles, who told me there was a real demand for top quality cod on the mainland.”
That conversation lit the spark. One summer day in 2018, Babineau packed a few fresh fillets and hit the road. He visited a mix of newly established and top-tier restaurants in Ontario and Quebec, including Pearl Morissette and Mon Lapin, handing out free samples.
“The very next day, my phone started ringing,” he recalls. “And it snowballed from there.”
Word travels fast in the food world, especially when it’s about wild North Atlantic cod from Newfoundland, a fish that’s nearly impossible to find fresh and whole outside the island.
In Montreal, Catherine Couvet Desrosiers, owner of Panacée, follows a simple but powerful philosophy: total respect for the product. “That means using every part of the fish. We try to waste nothing, the bones for stock, the collar for grilling, even the cheeks. It’s about honouring the life that was taken and maximizing its potential,” she explains.
“I think there’s a need for Canadians to understand that Newfoundland cod represents something precious”
Catherine recently began sourcing her cod from Paul and Jerry after hearing about them through word of mouth among fellow chefs. “I’ve been looking for suppliers I could build direct relationships with and people who share the same philosophy, simple, honest, and committed to quality. Cod has become my favourite fish to work with. I want people to experience what truly fresh, properly handled cod can be. It is a revelation when done right,” says Ms. Desrosiers.
Beyond simply sharing her love for cod, Ms. Desrosiers hopes to raise awareness among Canadians about the deep connection between ecology and food.
“I think there’s a need for Canadians to understand that Newfoundland cod represents something precious, not just incredible seafood, but a sustainable way of fishing that respects both the ocean and the fish,” she says. “This isn’t just about preserving tradition; it’s about supporting a method that ensures quality, sustainability, and respect for marine ecosystems. When you choose handline cod, you’re also choosing the future of our oceans.”
Over 3,000 kilometres from Bonavista, Restaurant Pearl Morissette in Ontario’s Niagara Region was one of the earliest supporters of Jerry’s fish.
“We originally had the idea of working exclusively with fish from the Great Lakes, but quickly realized the challenges and limitations,” says Eric Robertson, owner and chef de cuisine of Restaurant Pearl Morissette. “Then, through the team at Raymonds, we heard about a fisherman who was working in a more artisanal way, with incredible skill and a real focus on the quality of what he was harvesting.”
In September of this year, the team at Pearl Morissette earned their second Michelin star, making them one of only two restaurants in Canada to receive that prestigious honour. Their constant attention to detail, unwavering commitment to quality, and deep respect for ecology form the foundation of what has become one of the world’s most acclaimed dining destinations.
“The fish arrived pristine and still in rigor mortis, something you rarely see in the Canadian fishery industry. It stood out immediately,” says Daniel Hadida, chef and co-owner of Restaurant Pearl Morissette. “The quality was impeccable from the start.”
“With handline cod, the difference starts with how it’s handled. The texture and freshness are preserved because it’s treated so delicately. Just as important, there’s virtually no bycatch; Jerry only takes what’s needed. We’re proud to pay more for fish caught with that level of care and commitment to sustainability,” says Liam McLoughlin, chef de cuisine.
A couple of summers ago, Daniel, Eric, and their colleague Liam joined Jerry for a day of fishing in Bonavista Bay.
“We saw firsthand how much physical work goes into it. There’s intention behind every step, from how the fish is caught to how it’s packed,” says Eric.
“Seeing that up close reminded us of our responsibility as chefs, to treat these ingredients with the same care they were harvested with. It’s a powerful connection, one that makes Canada’s food community truly special,” Daniel adds.
Back in the dining room at Restaurant Pearl Morissette, a delicate cod dish often comes with the story of Jerry and Paul.
“It gives our guests a window into the history of fishing in Canada, but also into the effort it takes for people like Jerry to work the way they do,” says Daniel Hadida. “Cod from Canadian waters is something we should prize, just like other world-renowned ingredients. It’s truly special, and our guests should know that and share the pride we feel in serving it.”
For Jerry, the recognition is rewarding, but it’s not what drives him. “I’m just doing what I’ve always done,” he says with a shrug. “Fishing the way my father did, and his father before him. When the cod moratorium hit, it changed everything for a while, but not how we fish. We kept at it, and now it feels like the world is finally starting to notice.”
Chef Blair Fleming, a born-and-raised Newfoundlander in his early 30s, has been working with Jerry’s fish for over a decade. “I was just starting out in the kitchen at Raymonds, one of the top restaurants in Canada at the time, and I clearly remember using Jerry’s cod, crabs, urchins, and razor clams,” he recalls.
Fast forward to 2025, and chef Fleming is now chef de cuisine at Boreal, a seasonal restaurant in Bonavista known for its commitment to hyper-local, sustainable ingredients that highlight the evolving flavours of Newfoundland. “I choose to work with cod simply because we’re in Newfoundland. It’s part of our identity, an integral part of our culture, and it’s such a great fish,” he says.
As he speaks, Mr. Fleming presents a few beautifully plated dishes, including fried cod tongues, grilled cod wings, cod liver dumplings, and steamed cod.
According to a 2025 report by Restaurants Canada, 31% of Canadians eat at a restaurant at least once a week, that’s almost 13 million people. With consumers becoming increasingly aware of the impact we have on the environment and our ecology, Jerry’s story serves as an important reminder of sustainability and cultural preservation, and can inspire change in the way we consume seafood.
The collapse of the North Atlantic cod fishery, which led to the 1992 cod moratorium, was primarily caused by technological advances and government mismanagement that resulted in severe overfishing, driving the cod population off Newfoundland to less than 1% of its original level. This staggering statistic refers to the biomass of northern cod relative to pre-industrial fishing levels in the 1950s.
In June 2024, the Canadian government lifted the 32-year cod moratorium. While stocks have shown signs of recovery, based on a recent report by The Canadian Affairs, they are still estimated at only 38% of their 1960s peak and are currently classified in the “cautious zone,” upgraded from the previous “critical zone.”
Handlining has been a way of life in Newfoundland for centuries, and Jerry is among the few remaining fishermen still choosing quality over profit and sustainability over scale. His work isn’t just about fish; it’s about protecting a culture and a connection to the sea that runs deep.
But the future of this tradition doesn’t rest solely in the hands of those on the water, it lives in the choices we make at the market and at the table. By supporting chefs and suppliers who value traceability, craftsmanship, and care, Canadian diners have the power to do more than just eat well. They can help sustain a way of life, one hook, one fish, and one conscious choice at a time.
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Photographer’s bio and summary.
Johnny C.Y. Lam (仲賢 Chung Yin) is a Canadian photographer based in Newfoundland. His work has been published in The Atlantic, The Globe and Mail, Canadian Geographic, Travel + Leisure and other leading publications. He is a Pulitzer Ocean Reporting Network grantee and is currently working on a long-term project documenting climate change and sea ice adaptation in Nunatsiavut.
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