Terraza Luz: A Taste of Tradition in Alma’s Back Alley
Alma | Mexican | 1231 Av. Lajoie, Outremont, QC | Reserve with DINR
The Details
Who: Lindsay and Juan, the dynamic couple behind Alma and Tinc Set
What: Back-alley taqueria pop-up located behind Alma
When: Every Saturday, from 12 to 3 PM, first-come, first-served, rain or shine
Why: Experience homemade tacos and tortillas made from heritage corn sourced directly from Mexico
Introduction
Juan using his grandmother's tortilla press
Montreal’s culinary landscape is no stranger to innovation, but every now and then, a concept emerges that offers more than just a new flavor—it offers a story. Such is the case with Terraza Luz, a charming back-alley taqueria pop-up that has become a neighborhood gathering spot. Tucked behind the popular Alma restaurant in Outremont, Terraza Luz isn't just serving up tacos; it's offering a deeply rooted cultural experience centered on one of Mexico’s most important ingredients—heritage corn.
Alma’s owners, husband-and-wife duo Juan and Lindsay, are reimagining a space that was originally used as a roasted chicken counter during the pandemic. Lindsay explains, “People used to order online and then come pick up their chicken, wine, and churros during the pandemic. That was a really exciting way of dealing with a not-so-cool time.” The concept was so successful that they spun it out into a new restaurant, Tinc Set, located next to Alma. With the back alley once again unused, the couple was inspired to offer a more accessible experience than the tasting menu at Alma. “At the beginning of July, we launched Terraza Luz, which means ‘light’ in Spanish, as a little wink to this beautiful afternoon light in our back alley that we never knew about until we had to use it during the pandemic.”
Reviving Heritage Corn
At the heart of Terraza Luz’s offerings is heritage corn, a far cry from the industrialized corn products many of us are accustomed to. This corn, sourced from Tlaxcala and Oaxaca in Mexico, is nixtamalized—a traditional process that involves soaking and cooking the corn in an alkaline solution before it’s ground into masa. This method not only enhances the corn’s nutritional value but also brings out a rich, wholesome flavor that’s worlds apart from the mass-produced alternatives.
The story of Terraza Luz is deeply personal for Juan, who grew up near Tlaxcala. He recalls a time when tortillas made from heritage corn were the norm in his village before industrialized corn products began to dominate. The shift had far-reaching impacts, not just on the local economy—forcing many to seek agricultural work abroad—but also on public health. Locals went from having deeply nutritious masa as a staple in their diet to mass-produced, lower-quality flour that had been stripped of all its nutrients and detoxifying elements.
Tortillas cooking over charcoal
Pop Up Tacos Profoundly Rooted in Tradition
In creating Terraza Luz, Juan and Lindsay sought to bring back the taste and tradition of true Mexican tortillas, made from scratch using just three ingredients: heritage corn, lime, and water. Every Saturday, from 12 to 3 PM, Juan can be found at the pop-up, hand-pressing tortillas using his grandmother’s press and cooking them on a charcoal grill. The menu is simple but thoughtfully curated, featuring a weekly special (this week, it’s carnitas!) along with staple vegetarian and chicken options, all paired with fresh margaritas, Catalan natural wine, cold beer, or non-alcoholic beverages.
The atmosphere at Terraza Luz is as inviting as the food. With a long communal table, fresh flowers, and the unmistakable aromas of grilled corn wafting through the air, the space welcomes up to 30 guests at a time, creating a laid-back, neighborhood vibe. There are no reservations, just the promise of an authentic culinary experience that’s both accessible and profoundly rooted in tradition.
Growing Prestige in the Culinary World
For many, a visit to Terraza Luz is an introduction to heritage corn, a revelation that challenges their perceptions of what a tortilla can be. The tortillas here are more textured, filling, and imbued with the distinct flavors of the land where the corn was grown. It’s a taste that lingers, not just on the palate, but in the memory—a reminder of the importance of preserving culinary traditions and the stories they tell.
Importantly, Juan and Lindsay are part of a broader movement reviving interest in heritage corn. About 60,000 tons of heritage corn are grown annually in Mexico, a small fraction of the 23 million tons of white corn produced, but the quality and flavor are capturing attention across the culinary world. In 2023, Yoli Tortilleria, a Mexican tortilla bakery in Kansas City that uses heritage corn, won the James Beard Award for Outstanding Bakery—one of the most prestigious culinary honors in the United States.
The Future of Terraza Luz
As Montreal edges closer to the colder months, Terraza Luz plans to extend its pop-up as long as possible, with heaters and an awning ready to keep the experience alive through the fall. Plans to host pop-ups throughout the winter are also in the works but we’ve been told to stay tuned for details. Regardless of how long this season lasts, the impact of Terraza Luz and its commitment to heritage corn will be felt for much longer. It’s a testament to the power of food to connect us to our roots, our history, and each other.
In a city known for its culinary diversity, Terraza Luz stands out as a shining example of authenticity and passion—a small, hidden gem where every bite tells a story, and every tortilla is a labor of love.
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Alma | Mexican | 1231 Av. Lajoie, Outremont, QC | Reserve with DINR