Song (by Kin Kao): the Making of a Michelin Guide Restaurant
Song (by Kin Kao) | Thai | 317 E Broadway, Vancouver, BC | Reserve with DINR
Introduction
In preparing for this editorial, Terrence Feng suggested we meet at Nemesis Coffee, an architecturally impressive spot in Vancouver that attracts a crowd as trendy as the space itself. With its unique pomegranate shape, white oak finishes, and arched ceilings, the café exudes a distinct sense of place. It’s a destination where cool people meet to talk about cool things over expertly prepared coffee and delicious bites.
Nemesis Coffee GNW
Upon arrival at Nemesis, I realized I had underestimated the parking situation. Road construction forced me into a maze of residential streets, and as the minutes ticked by, I realized I was going to be late. Trying to make up for lost time, I parked and jogged towards the café, spotting a shortcut down a steep hill and through a raspberry patch. Without fully weighing the consequences, I decided to go for it, hacking my way through the bushes and emerging a bit disheveled but closer to my destination. Stopping a block short, I fixed my hair, tied my shoelaces, and caught my breath. Being part of the in-crowd requires certain sacrifices. I arrived just four minutes late, but as you’d expect from a Michelin Guide restaurateur, Terrence was already there, having graciously secured a table for us.
Finding Passion in the Plate and Exploring Vancouver’s Culinary Scene
Terrence's love of food and hospitality was immediately apparent—a passion, he explained, that grew over time. Food wasn't always a central focus in his life: “People think I'm crazy, but food was never a big thing for me growing up. Having immigrated from Hong Kong, my parents’ focus was on building a life here. Being completely new to a culture, especially when you don’t know the language, is really hard. So for us, the focus was always on putting food on the table and not being picky about what we ate. Bigger goals, like owning a house, were the priority.”
After graduating from university and paying off his student loans, Terrence began to explore new restaurants and different cuisines. He recalled, “I started by trying to cook recipes, but I went about it the wrong way—buying elaborate cookbooks and only having one out of twenty ingredients. I’d go to the supermarket, find the ingredients, and then only use them once. It was a bit of a deterrent. But as I started working, I valued the experience of going out. It became more about the one-on-one time with the person I was with, and the food was an added bonus.” As someone with a cupboard full of scarcely used spices, I found solace in knowing I wasn’t alone.
The Path to Becoming a Restaurateur - Kin Kao
When a friend approached Terrence in 2013 about opening a restaurant, he was initially uninterested. Since dining out was one of his favorite forms of entertainment, he was hesitant to turn it into a business venture.
Crab fried rice with green nam jim sauce
“I was new to Thai food, and the food court version I had tried before was nothing like this—it blew my mind.”
That all changed, however, when the same friend invited him over for a home-cooked Thai meal. “I was new to Thai food, and the food court version I had tried before was nothing like this—it blew my mind. I was between jobs at the time, so I thought, “Why not? What’s the risk?” That’s how I got into the industry”.
With a bit of a smirk, he concedes that his lack of hospitality experience at the time made it easier to take the leap of faith. Had he known how challenging the restaurant industry would be, he might have approached it more cautiously. Expanding on this, Terrence explains that as an owner, you can create a great plan and hire a fantastic team, but you still have almost no control over how the day-to-day unfolds. You're constantly putting out fires, which can be a difficult reality to adapt to.
In February 2015, Terrence and his partners opened their first restaurant, Kin Kao, on Commercial Drive. The menu focuses on Thai favorites like Pad Thai and Green Curry, and it was one of the first Asian restaurants in Vancouver to emphasize pairings with craft beers. This unique combination made it a go-to spot for locals seeking classic Thai cuisine. Unbeknownst to Terrence at the time, Kin Kao’s success—but also its narrow focus—had already planted the seeds for his next venture.
"When we first opened Kin Kao, we never planned to open multiple restaurants," Terrence says. Their initial goal was simply to excel at what they did and keep customers happy and coming back. However, over time, the idea for a new restaurant began to take shape, driven by a desire to explore beyond the popular but familiar confines of Kin Kao’s menu. With the collective experience of the chefs they had worked with over the years and inspiration from dining and traveling, the team realized they had enough creative fuel to launch something new: Song.
Song as a Canvas for Creative Expression
At its core, Terrence believes Song is a reflection of personal and collaborative expression. The team operates without a rigid playbook, allowing them to embrace spontaneity and seasonality. The menu at Song is a mix of core staples and seasonal innovations, with about 70% of the dishes remaining consistent while the rest rotate with the changing seasons or new inspiration. This approach ensures that while guests can always find their favorite dishes, there's also an opportunity to discover something new and exciting with each visit. The team is unafraid to experiment, understanding that not every dish will be a hit, but valuing the process of trying new things.
Cloud over Siam Zero Proof Cocktail
"There’s more to Thai cuisine than just stir-fries and curries; there are other interesting dishes that people might not even know about," Terrence explains. This focus on education and exploration is evident in every dish and is paired with the team’s commitment to finding dishes that work with individual customer palates. Since opening in 2021, Song has stayed true to its original vision while continuing to evolve. Terrence takes pride in the fact so much of the original menu is still in place, a testament to the team’s dedication to getting things right from the start. "Whether we just lucked out and hit all the right notes, or we spent so much time on it," the menu remains a cornerstone of the restaurant’s identity.
For Terrence, his favorite item on the menu is the fried rice. “The protein changes depending on sourcing and availability, but right now, it’s crab fried rice, with chunks of blue crab meat. That’s my go-to, probably because I grew up on fried rice, and it’s always been a comfort food for me. I love the way our fried rice hits—it’s very dry, with a bit of wok heat, and it’s really filling. Plus, it’s one of those dishes where I never finish it, but it’s even better the next day.” Having previously enjoyed the fried rice, I’m hard-pressed to disagree—for me, the highlight of the dish is the green Nam Jim sauce that livens it up with intense flavors that are spicy yet refreshing.
The Song experience isn’t limited to the food alone. The restaurant’s wine and cocktail program has been a significant focus, driven by Terrence’s personal love for natural wine. "If I could get away with just having a wine list of twenty Rieslings with our food, I would. But I have to understand that not everyone drinks Riesling, so we offer a variety," he laughs. What started as a small cocktail selection of 4-5 drinks has also expanded into a thoughtfully curated list that pairs beautifully with the bold flavors of Thai food. A personal favorite of mine is the Cloud over Siam, a non-alcoholic cocktail playfully presented with a coconut foam topped with sprinkles and a refreshing base combining ginger, galangal, and lime leaf flavors.
The Michelin Guide and the Future of Food in Vancouver
When asked for his thoughts on how the city’s food scene is evolving, Terrence sums it up rather quickly: “Slowly, very slowly.” He added, “It’s a very expensive city to go in blind and do exactly what you want to do. We’re really good at some things, like Asian cuisine, because there’s a palate for it and a lot of talent making those types of foods. But you don’t see much diversity, like Peruvian food, because people are overly cautious. So things move very slowly compared to other cities.” In his estimation, “Vancouver’s Asian scene is better than Montreal’s or Toronto’s, but there’s still room for growth and diversity.”
Shifting focus to the arrival of the Michelin Guide in 2022, Terrence notes that while the announcement brought a burst of excitement, the long-term impact on Vancouver’s food culture is still unfolding. The allure and prestige of being named in the guide are certainly powerful motivators, but Vancouver’s high costs and an uncertain economic environment limit the risks restaurants can take and the amount consumers are willing to spend. The result is a razor-thin margin of error. These are challenges that even a global PR force like the Michelin Guide can’t change on its own.
For Song, being recognized by Michelin as a Bib Gourmand destination in both 2022 and 2023 was a significant milestone, providing validation for the hard work and dedication that goes into the restaurant every day. “Obviously the fact that we were a part of it, that’s huge for us. I don't even want to think about a world where we were not a part of it,” Terrence says reflectively. When the initial Michelin Guide announcements were made, the impact on business was immediate. “The first year after we were getting one reservation almost every 30 seconds. And it continued for weeks and months on end.” While appreciative of the recognition, it is clear the focus remains on the future and the continual pursuit of excellence, whether through perfecting the current menu, exploring new culinary ideas, or simply ensuring that every guest who walks through the door leaves with a lasting impression.
Conclusion
As Song continues to evolve, it remains a reflection of the journey that brought it to life—a journey marked by inspiration, collaboration, and a deep respect for the art of Thai cooking. "We want people to come in and feel like they had a ‘Song experience,’" Terrence says, summing up the restaurant’s mission. In a city that has been cautious about pushing culinary boundaries, Song stands out as an example of how embracing creativity and innovation can fuel success.
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Song (by Kin Kao) | Thai | 317 E Broadway, Vancouver, BC | Reserve with DINR