Our next stop on the "Dinner with DINR" series brings us to Vancouver where a special celebration deserves an equally special destination.

St. Lawrence | French | 269 Powell St, Vancouver, BC | Reserve with DINR

At the Intersection of Québécois and French Culture

Located in Vancouver’s east side, St. Lawrence is one of Canada’s most celebrated restaurants. More than just a meal, Chef Jean-Christophe delivers an experience that transports diners to the rustic elegance of Quebec. The atmosphere exudes old-world charm, with soft lighting, vintage accents, and lively French music inviting guests to settle in for an evening of comfort and indulgence. Inspired by the cottage owned by Chef’s grandparents, small details like a signed Montreal Canadiens hockey puck, a fleur-de-lis in the kitchen, and vintage photographs all reinforce this notion of Québécois charm. Even if you’ve never visited rural Quebec, it’s easy to imagine that it must feel like this.

The Chef and His Vision

Chef Jean-Christophe Poirier, with over 25 years of culinary experience, draws deeply from his Québécois heritage and formative years in Montreal's renowned kitchens. After honing his craft at celebrated restaurants such as Toqué!, Lumière, and Vancouver’s Ask for Luigi, Jean-Christophe opened St. Lawrence in 2017. The restaurant quickly garnered critical acclaim, earning numerous awards along with a reputation as one of the city's most in-demand reservations. When the Michelin Guide arrived in Vancouver in 2022, St. Lawrence was awarded a Michelin Star, which it successfully retained in 2023.

In addition to his success in the kitchen, Jean-Christophe published his first cookbook, Where the River Narrows, in 2022. The book explores his passion for French and Québécois traditions, offering over 125 recipes that bridge both cultures.

The Culinary Experience

The evening was a celebration for a friend who recently announced they were expecting their first child. The momentous occasion deserved a setting that was intimate yet vibrant, and St. Lawrence fit the bill perfectly. Its fantastic non-alcoholic cocktail program was an added bonus for the guest of honor. Seated near the center of the restaurant, we had a perfect view of the open kitchen and well-appointed bar, allowing us to fully appreciate the rhythm of the expertly executed dinner service.

We began with a cocktail named 50/50, which delivered surprising depth for a spirit-free drink. Featuring a base of chamomile and rooibos tea, infused with grapefruit and sweetened with maple and vanilla, it offered a harmonious blend of citrusy brightness, delicate floral notes, and balanced sweetness. A creative use of coffee and teas throughout the non-alcoholic menu added depth to each sip.

The core of the dinner menu is a four-course tasting menu featuring three savory courses and one dessert. With two options for each course, a table for two can enjoy up to eight different dishes if both parties are adventurous and willing to share. A poignant lesson in the importance of choosing your friends wisely. The menu evolves frequently but is supported by a selection of En Complément dishes that are described as St. Lawrence classics. One such dish is the Oreilles de Crisse, fried pork rinds with maple and Montreal spices. Served in a maple syrup tin, the crunchy snack’s presentation is delightfully Canadian and the perfect interlude when weighing dinner selections.

Our tasting menu began with two intriguing options: a Beetroot tart with Oka cheese, local berries, and horseradish sorbet, and a seafood dish featuring squid in a sauce vierge with grilled eggplant and Meyer lemon. The freshness of the squid was elevated by the citrus notes of the sauce vierge, resulting in a dish that was sophisticated yet approachable. "Virgin sauce" originates from Provence, France, and is classically paired with white fish to enhance light, vibrant flavors.

As the non-expectant guest, a glass of Chardonnay was the perfect accompaniment, marking a subtle but important distinction between celebration and solidarity. Under the direction of Sommelier David Lawson, the wine list leans into low-intervention winemakers, which can be enjoyed à la carte or added as pairings to the tasting menu.

For the second course, the Pâte Farcie au Lapin was a delight. The stuffed pasta with rabbit was enriched by the tangy romesco sauce, heirloom tomatoes, and a vibrant green herb sauce, creating a dish that was both comforting and sophisticated. My dining companion enjoyed a Crevettes Bisque, featuring BC Slide Stripe Shrimp renowned for their remarkably sweet yet delicate flavor. Midway through the tasting menu, spirits were high as we chatted through the excitement of starting a family. The hope for the future that comes with expecting a baby provided an energizing backdrop for the evening as mocktails, cocktails, and wine continued to flow.

Our favourite savory course of the evening was the Assiette de Veau, which presented a trio of veal with a buttermilk soubise, a clever onion stuffed with onion, and a rich French onion jus. The subtle twist here was the incorporation of buttermilk into the soubise, a classic French sauce dating back to the 1800s with a base that typically calls for milk or heavy cream. The natural acidity in the buttermilk balanced the overall richness of the evening’s most substantial dish.

For dessert, the Clafoutis de Baies Salal offered a unique twist on the classic French clafoutis, which traditionally features unpitted black cherries. In this version, tart Salal berries, native to the Pacific Northwest, take the spotlight. Known for their mildly sweet, earthy flavor, they paired beautifully with a creamy pistachio praline ice cream. The dessert was both refreshing and indulgent, offering a delightful balance of tartness and sweetness to conclude the meal.

Service and Ambiance

The dining room service, led by Julie Sopuck, reflects her extensive experience at some of Vancouver’s best restaurants. She and her team effortlessly deliver a seamless guest experience. The staff’s attentiveness—whether refilling a glass, deftly replacing dropped silverware (oops!), or adjusting the meal's pace—was a testament to their skill and dedication. The care and attention we received from the entire team made the evening feel truly special.

During dinner, we inquired about a prominent brass bell hanging in the kitchen and learned that it is used to mark special occasions, like when a staff member dines at the restaurant. Ringing the bell marks their “coming home.” Our server shared that perhaps the most memorable instance of ringing the bell was to celebrate St. Lawrence being honored with one Michelin Star. The staff, in the middle of dinner service, were informed of the award and jubilantly rang the bell, kicking off a celebration with the entire restaurant. These anecdotes reinforced the warmth and familial atmosphere that had already made us feel at home.

Conclusion

From start to finish, dining at St. Lawrence is about more than just enjoying a meal—it’s a celebration of both Québécois and French culture, expertly curated by Chef Jean-Christophe Poirier and his dedicated team. Every element, from the thoughtfully crafted tasting menu and beverage programs to the warm, attentive service, contributes to an experience that transcends typical dining. As much as the food reflects Chef Poirier’s upbringing and deep-rooted connection to his heritage, the atmosphere amplifies this narrative, telling a story of warmth, tradition, and family. For a friend embarking on a new chapter of starting their own family, St. Lawrence proved to be the perfect destination.

About DINR

DINR offers same day and exclusive reservations at the best restaurants in Vancouver and across Canada. Since its inception in Montreal, DINR has built a cult following among award-winning chefs, discerning diners, and avid travellers passionate about unparalleled culinary and hospitality experiences.